Electronics Production Engineer Jon Hall offered to take a look at the fob when a relative complained about having difficulties with the alarm/immobiliser and had already tried replacing the battery with no luck.
Jon writes:
"When I opened up the key fob, the problem was obvious as the push button fell onto the floor. The surface mount leads had sheared out of the soldered joint. You can see in the photo below the four pads where the push button used to reside...
After adding a little flux I re-tinned the pads:
and soldered the component back into position:
My advice: Apply more solder when you know a component will be subjected to mechanical stress, even better use through hole components, not surface mount!"
Karen Field(This post originally appeared on Made By Monkey's American cousin, on Design News.)
Comments (9)
What you need is solder with 37% lead in it!
Posted by Ian Benton | June 3, 2009 11:39 AM
Thanks to this entry and the comments on the linked Design News site I've been encouraged to open up my old Ford key fob, which has just failed, and found exactly the same problem.
Three comments, though:
Of course a totally different approach to the problem (like using capacitative sensors), which would remove mechanical components altogether, might be even better. Or we could think out of the box and persuade car manufacturers to use standardised parts rather than roll their own!
Posted by Martin Tarr | June 3, 2009 12:40 PM
Glad we've been of some help, Martin, and thanks for some good points. I'm sure cost is an overriding factor.
About the switch, does ten years use, even hard use, make failure acceptable? That's a question we could open out. I feel a Poll coming on... How could we phrase it? After how many years use does switch failure become acceptable? 1, 2, 5, 10, 12?
Suggestions welcome for phrasing such a poll.
Posted by Alun Williams | June 3, 2009 1:10 PM
Headphone sockets in personal music players frequently suffer the same fate, for much the same causes I imagine.
Posted by Andrew | June 17, 2009 12:22 PM
If the switch rear sat flat on the pcb it would reduce stress on the legs - it looks like it might have a gap under it from the photo. However, looking at the pads before re-tinning I would say it was never soldered properly in the first place - contaminated switch pins?
Dave
Posted by Dave Hill | June 17, 2009 12:28 PM
I suspect that there may be a very slight gap under the switch, to allow for a glue spot, which is sometimes used in PCB manufacture.
If there is indeed a gap between the switch and the PCB then there'd be a tendancy for the legs to splay out sideways if the button is pushed really hard, stressing the solder joints and leading to premature failure. RoHS solder probably doesn't help either..
How many people when faced with a remote control or key fob that won't work simply press the button harder and harder in the hope that something will happen? I know I do!
Maybe the answer is to educate car owners in the proper use of their key fobs...?
;)
Dave
(PS: The "Dave Hill" above isn't me..)
Posted by Dave Hills | June 24, 2009 11:35 AM
Ah there we are. This is no doubt a 'feature' built into new cars. Never mind the switch, its the captive owners, a phrase coined by modern marketeers, once know in engineering circles a Captive nuts. I digress, with the bailing out of the auto industry, the bean counter management needed to see source of income from engineering to stave off bankruptcy.
This is it - £250 for the non technically literate man in the street.
Posted by Alex | July 16, 2009 3:33 AM
I think there may be more than an element of truth to what you say, Alex. However, that "income source" was needed even before the current crunch...
Posted by Alun Williams | July 16, 2009 4:18 PM
I was handed one of these from a volvo some years ago, probably over ten years old, but the switch itself had worn out! After 10 years a lot can go wrong!
Posted by Kevin Field | August 2, 2009 10:18 PM